Engine cooling in Mazda 3

Engine cooling in Mazda 3.

Turbine cooling – slightly reverse procedure, exhaust gases are not the coldest, so the turbine absorbs a large part of the temperature, sometimes, that it literally glows cherry red or red-orange while driving (exceeds 500°C!). If we stop the engine without the turbo cooling down – the oil evaporates almost immediately, the turbine shaft is wearing quite clearly. Nay – oil also carries “garbage”, which, after rapid evaporation, remain on the axle, causing even more pitting. Nay – when we come in the morning and start the car – the residue on the axle will get pushed under the seals and start to wear them out – in this way “season” turbine, which “soon” it will leak and shed oil (to exhale, into the air and everywhere around). Moreover, after turning off the engine, the heated turbine burns the oil, causing the cross-section of the oil channels to decrease – resulting in seizure. Cooling down the turbine involves running the engine at idle speed “while”. It is accepted, that it's like that 2 minutes of idle speed (officially the minimum 30-60 sek). We are already reaching the house, We rush to the spot (taking it easy, of course), we limp, we limp, we park calmly, we turn off the radio, we collect all this, what to take in the car, (we block the gears with a bear-lock if anyone has one) we scratch our heads etc. Finally, we turn off the engine – For me it lasts 2,5 minutes. It takes practice.

There is one exception to this rule – Mazda engine “comprex”, which is the only one that does not require cooling of the turbine (you can and should turn it off immediately). The engine warm-up process remains the same.

If someone wants to play a prank on my husband and kill his turbo in a brand new car, after starting the cold engine, please hit the gas hard right away., high revs, sprint as per 400 m, and at the end of the ride – just make a little effort and then turn it off straight from high revs. The effect is surefire – the turbine will fall apart before 50,000 miles.

It is a common misconception, that the turbine “turns on” by 2000 revolutions. As long as the crankshaft is turning – this is how long the turbine also rotates. Effect “switching on” turbos result from the physics/chemistry of combustion and the actual pressure difference. As long as the pressure on the turbine does not exceed a certain level, you can even tell, that the engine is naturally aspirated. THE TURBINE IS ALWAYS ROTATING, when there are exhaust fumes (it is located on the exhaust manifold, So “collects” any exhaust from the cylinders).

During engine braking, the injectors do not deliver fuel (ropki) but the cylinders are ventilated anyway (the valves open, sucking in air, the engine compresses air, exhaust valves release), otherwise the engine would not brake! More or less compressed air is pushed out through the valves and drives the turbine even without burning fuel.

Turbine in DiTD (both engine models) is oil-cooled and water-cooled (circulation from the engine), both versions have a constant rotor geometry, only the bypass valve is controlled differently – either overpressure or underpressure.

Engine warming up in Mazda 3

Engine warming up in Mazda 3.

The turbine has three basic functions “zones”:
– part of the exhaust gas intake,
– part of the suspension mechanism (plain bearing, mechanical suspension),
– compression part.

There is a very large temperature difference between them and quite significant stresses resulting from the exhaust gas pressure. To put it simply, we have two rotors (receiving and giving energy) connected by an axle. The exhaust gases leaving the collector go straight to the turbine blades, force them to move – on the other side is the opposite part, sucking and compressing air. Between this there is an oil plain bearing. So the turbine has “bearings” only while the engine is running. When we turn off the engine and the turbine has high oil speed – without being crowded – “disappears” immediately and the turbine shaft seizes (damage). The consequences of such treatment are oil leaks and “plucie” oil on the compressed air side. The turbines reach quite dizzying speeds – the best ones even pull it out 250 thousand revolutions per minute!

You need to take care of your turbine. The first element is the air filter, if it doesn't exist or is too old, it will also result in poorer performance of the car (difficult to suck) dirt appears, which wipe the delicate blades of the turbine traveling at dizzying speed. Oil also has a lot to say – its task is not only to create a sliding bearing but also to cool it! Oil that is too old loses its properties (the turbine grinds when we press the gas harder) and leaves slime and dirt, which stick to the axle and slowly damage it (wżery).

Turbine warm-up – this is not funny at all – It can be tragic for the turbine. A cold engine still has cold oil; it is not enough, to effectively produce the proper plain bearing cushion and become tighter “deep” – the impact of exhaust gases crushes the turbine, which wears out. Therefore, you should use the gas gently until the engine reaches a good temperature. Personally, I try not to limp at a speed of 80-85 km/h, which corresponds to approx. 1800-1900 rpm (GW DiTD); when accelerating (delicate) I don't drag the air. 2200 rpm.

PS. biker “newer” (with a new turbine) While the engine is warming up, they limit the driver's imagination a bit “weaken” the engine until it reaches such temperature. In addition, RF4/3 spin more easily at higher speeds, and are weaker at the bottom – and they like the 2000-3500rpm range more.

Engine in Mazda 3

Engine in Mazda 3.

It would be RF

  • RF- the first traditional Mazda 64 HP diesel installed in the model 626 GC
  • RF-7- other “ordinary” uncharged 60KM (626 GD, 323 BJ, also in the BJ version with a Zyxel pump with a power of 71 HP without a turbine)
  • RF-CX Comprex – 75KM (626 GE i 626 GV) [compressor from the German company Comprex GMBH]
  • RF-T: [created for Mazda line 626/6]
        • – RF2A 101 KM w 626 (w 323/premacy 90, 101)
        • – RF4F 110 HP in 626 (w 323/premacy RF3F 90 i 101)
        • – RF5C 121, 136 w M6, MPV 2002
        • – RF7J 143 DPF w M6 (in M5 110 i 143, and 136 in MPV at the end of production)

      In the case of common rail engines – series name: MZR-CD

Other engines

  • RTJ – engine in 121 1.8 D (Ford design, 60KM/4800 1995-97)
  • PN – engine in 323 BG 1.7 [PN 40(55)4700, PN 41(56)4300]
  • 4EE1-T Isuzu – w 323 BA (the BC) 82KM/4400
  • R2 47(64KM)4000 – B Series (UF) 2.2D;
  • WL 57(78KM)4100 – (AND) 2.5D engine code
  • WL-T 85(116KM)3500 – 2.5TD mainly installed in MPVs (indirect injection + turbine)

In Mazdas 3 1.6TD engine code is Y6 66 (90KM/4000) i Y6 80 (109KM/4000) (engine to the PSA concern)

In Mazdas 2 1,4 TD 68KM MZI1.4CD (or another name F6JA 50 (68) 4000 year 2002-2006)

To shorten questions regarding. DiTD [16V, OHC, 1998 ccm]

  • 1998-2000 2.0 DiTD 90KM RF2A (BJ, premacy)
  • 1998-2000 2.0 DiTD 101KM RF2A (626, BJ, and probably Premacy too)
  • X.2000-2002 2.0 DiTD 90,101 KM, RF4F the RF3F (BJ, Premacy do 2004 inclusive!)
  • X.2000-2002 2.0 DiTD 110 KM RF4F (626 GF/GW)