Mazda dual mass flywheel 3.

This is not a new invention at all, but it has recently appeared in diesel engines and can cause a lot of problems for users. Principle of operation (for the user) is simple: the engine is quieter anyway “jumps” (less vibration transmitted to the wheels, steering wheel etc). Two different rotating masses “tense” they are a flexible connector, which, depending on the momentary vibration, transfers it to the other wheel with a delay. Theory of beauty, action also only – as practice shows – quite unreliable. However, you can learn a few rules to effectively extend the life of this rather expensive element (2-4k pln!).

The greatest vibrations resulting from “jerking” crankshaft are in the range of up to 1500 rpm and therefore we try to avoid this rpm range while driving. Accelerating or driving on the road or “limping” the best way around the city, to take place in the range of 1800-2800rpm (just indicatively). Of course, starting requires lower revs (known, 1-2-3 the gears in the M6 ​​overlap quite a bit “narrowly” and it's practically impossible “to omit” 1500 rpm without entering 3000 rpm in the previous gear). Of course, sometimes there is no point in sawing the car in first gear, since we're stuck in traffic jams for... 10 minutes at a speed of 25 km/h – then you need to have 1200rpm in 3rd gear…

However, the point is not to overload the engine/dual mass flywheel in the lower rev range (I guess, If someone drives very dynamically, the language doesn't bother him). Unfortunately, a side effect is higher fuel consumption because the most efficient range of a diesel engine 1200-1800 is severely limited.

Timing in Mazda 3.

This is a very vital element of every diesel engine. Due to the high compression ratio – the valves are never safely located in relation to the piston and very drastic conscientiousness is required in terms of replacement and selection of parts. Connecting rod (moved by pistons), injection pump drive (or high pressure) and camshaft (moving the valves via levers) are fastened with a timing belt. At the same time, the water pump is driven (the same stripe) and on the other side of the engine (drive transmitted by the camshaft) empty parade (vacuum pump – brake booster) and via chain/sprocket power steering.

A broken belt in diesel engines results in a very expensive repair, often exceeding the price of a new motor. Mazda designers have developed a system of vertically positioned valves and the appropriate shape of the combustion chamber in the piston to ensure that any breakage of the timing belt causes the least possible losses.. And you have to admit, that they succeeded (VW designers creating the engine 2.0 TDI 16V created an almost identical head, based on the same principles, but a few years later than the Japanese ).

The valve train is under greater load at higher engine speeds. Therefore, people, who love to rev the engine to the limit may later complain about the reduced life of the timing belt and tensioner.

The most “unreliable” an element in timing is human stupidity or cunning.
Two extremely important elements – the belt and hydro-tensioner are the most responsible elements. The original Mazda belt is Unitta and the hydro-tensioner – NTN, the water pump mounted on the timing belt may be original or manufactured by e.g. GMB (in DiTD replacement every 180k km).
To sum up:
At DITD, we replace timing kits every time 90 thousand km. Water pump every 180k km.
UNITTA belt tensioner and NTN rollers
There is no reliable and reliable method for assessing the timing mileage.
Amateur tinkering with the timing ends in disaster.
Possible tensioning of the tensioner is possible (link below) but you MUST NOT squeeze it in any other position than VERTICAL ONLY (at all, if there was one “stretched” it can't be flat)
Maximum pressure force on the hydro-tensioner (destructive) is 25kg vertically
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i190/magicadm/napinacz_sciskanie_DITD.jpg

For the inquisitive – the hydro-tensioner becomes air-filled when compressed in a different position than vertically… you can try to bleed it, which, however, takes a lot of time – slow vertical compression + expansion (it's going really fast). Air lock usually ends with the timing belt failing.

Additionally, you should pay attention to the danger “stupefaction” hydro tensioner when leaving the car “in gear”. This is dangerous in one case – when the car is tilted, e.g. forward and left it in reverse or vice versa. In this case “opposite” side of the belt (relative to the tensioner) will be loose and when starting, the belt may jump over a tooth (one, two, Three, lots of, lots of… lots of $$).

Co 30.000 (DiTD) belongs officially (unofficially as well) adjust the valve clearances. Suction valves (inlet, these longer levers) they should have 0.15 mm of clearance (on a cold engine) and exhaust (shorter) 0,35mm. When making this adjustment, new overflow washers must be used (5 pieces – ory PLN 130, fakes from MAN are much cheaper) and the gasket under the valve cover (I guess, that no “she sat down”).
The original Mazda overflow pads are electroplated with silver metal (silver, nickel??) due to the material – the head is aluminum and copper has the opposite “voltage sign” and electrochemical corrosion occurs. Hence the difference (Man have a cast iron head) and it's hard to say authoritatively, whether and to what extent this is excessive concern…

The condition of the camshaft should also be checked periodically, which in the case of DiTD (and, as practice shows, probably also in the newer CR) is exfoliated. She's the culprit here “factory” and poor quality of the material (Weird, that mazda doesn't do anything about it). However, it is an indisputable fact, that the peeling roller does not damage the head or bridges (what happens in TDI designs, where the rollers usually wear out on the bridges and not “noses”).

Oils in Mazda 3.

Mazda engines run well with good oils. Mineral ones finish off the unit quite quickly… Synthetic or semi-synthetic oils should be used. They are replaced every 10,000 km (along with the filter in DiTD, in the case of MZR-CD every 20,000 km). Extending this period is inappropriate not only for the engine but also for the turbine. Common rail engines have less frequent oil change intervals.

Mazda's branded oil is DEXELIA, or French ELF. For example, my friend magicadm uses Elf SXR 5W30 (course 140 thousand km – no cavities), (ex)my madzia DiTD is using Shell Helix Diesel semi-synthetic again (mileage approximately 200kkm or more )

CR engines receive different oil – service pours Mobil Super FE 5w30 (semi-synthetic oil?), sometimes called Mobil Special FE 5w30. Other websites only offer Dexelia – who's right, hard to say. In M6, replacement is theoretically carried out every 20,000 km, but it's probably better to shorten the operating time – an overfilled oil filter may have trouble keeping the oil clean, which may result in gluing the dragon…

For CR engine 110/143 DPF installed, among others, in M5 and M6, ONLY oils intended for engines with a particulate filter may be used (the filter costs money, I guess 9 kpln, so you better take care of it). Dexelia DPF is not the same as Elf DPF, because Mazda wanted three times lower content of substances in the oil that are harmful to DPF – and this oil is available only at Mazda Dealerships.

Poor oil and filter (and even more so, their replacement is too rare) they very often cause seizing (peeling) camshaft (most often on the first cam). This phenomenon does not only apply to Mazda engines, but also to other companies

Two sample photos taken in a Mazda with quite low mileage but poor service – filters replaced every other time, oil – as long as it's cheaper “it's just oil”…

Additionally (probably) overpowering a cold engine causes greater load on the valves and, consequently, – worse lubrication of the roller in the head (the oil is still too cold and too thick) which may additionally result in reduced shaft life. Similar effects can be observed (although less often) in RF5C engines – i.e. models with M6 ysz We recommend using Castrol Magnatec oil in cars with several years of experience (DiTD, CD) as many people have had some rather strange complications after using it.

In this case, the camshaft must be replaced with a new one – roller cost approx. PLN 450 (available on the website – e.g. The car).

You can't (I guess, but I definitely wrote it wrong) use motodoctor type oil additives.

Problems, the source of which was a sealed oil dragon. We have not been able to discover clearly why this happened, but you have to keep this in mind, when we have the so-called. “snake in your pocket” for filter or oil… In the history of the automotive industry, a thesis straight from toddlers has been put forward many times, poldków and “Russian pogroms” with a national nickname “Warsaw”, that over time (along with the mileage) increasingly thicker oils should be used (read mineral). First of all, this is bullshit (when it comes to use in Mazdas) and secondly, it is nonsense when it comes to today's times. If someone bought a Mazda filled with mineral oil, don't ask what to do, just let him exchange it for “semi-synthetic engine lubricant”. Many people have performed this procedure with very positive results. If the engine is not completely damaged, it will not have any negative side effects. If the engine is dying, nothing will help it except overhaul… Operating Mazdas with a mineral engine results in the oil rings seizing up in the pistons very quickly.

Oil blackening is a common situation in indirect injection engines (After a minute of running the engine, the clean oil will be black and this is normal). This will no longer be the case with CR engines – Due to the more complete combustion of the fuel, the oil does not have to dissipate such amounts of soot existing on the cylinder walls. Direct injection engines are about half the curve