Engine warming up in Mazda 3.

The turbine has three basic functions “zones”:
– part of the exhaust gas intake,
– part of the suspension mechanism (plain bearing, mechanical suspension),
– compression part.

There is a very large temperature difference between them and quite significant stresses resulting from the exhaust gas pressure. To put it simply, we have two rotors (receiving and giving energy) connected by an axle. The exhaust gases leaving the collector go straight to the turbine blades, force them to move – on the other side is the opposite part, sucking and compressing air. Between this there is an oil plain bearing. So the turbine has “bearings” only while the engine is running. When we turn off the engine and the turbine has high oil speed – without being crowded – “disappears” immediately and the turbine shaft seizes (damage). The consequences of such treatment are oil leaks and “plucie” oil on the compressed air side. The turbines reach quite dizzying speeds – the best ones even pull it out 250 thousand revolutions per minute!

You need to take care of your turbine. The first element is the air filter, if it doesn't exist or is too old, it will also result in poorer performance of the car (difficult to suck) dirt appears, which wipe the delicate blades of the turbine traveling at dizzying speed. Oil also has a lot to say – its task is not only to create a sliding bearing but also to cool it! Oil that is too old loses its properties (the turbine grinds when we press the gas harder) and leaves slime and dirt, which stick to the axle and slowly damage it (wżery).

Turbine warm-up – this is not funny at all – It can be tragic for the turbine. A cold engine still has cold oil; it is not enough, to effectively produce the proper plain bearing cushion and become tighter “deep” – the impact of exhaust gases crushes the turbine, which wears out. Therefore, you should use the gas gently until the engine reaches a good temperature. Personally, I try not to limp at a speed of 80-85 km/h, which corresponds to approx. 1800-1900 rpm (GW DiTD); when accelerating (delicate) I don't drag the air. 2200 rpm.

PS. biker “newer” (with a new turbine) While the engine is warming up, they limit the driver's imagination a bit “weaken” the engine until it reaches such temperature. In addition, RF4/3 spin more easily at higher speeds, and are weaker at the bottom – and they like the 2000-3500rpm range more.